There’s a reason so many restaurants have *almost* the same name.

“Restaurants are really key in shaping cultural trends at the truly local level,” says Helen Rosner, a New Yorker staff writer and longtime food writer. “Fashion can come down the runway; we can all talk about a certain famous cerulean sweater scene (from The Devil Wears Prada). But the most direct access on a day-to-day basis to the shifting tides of trends is in restaurant culture.”