Category Archives: archetypes

How ‘Dupe’ Culture Took Over Online Fashion

TikTok has sped up fashion cycles — and helped push inexpensive knockoffs onto the market in record time


https://www.rollingstone.com/culture/culture-features/dupe-culture-fast-fashion-tiktok-1234591964/ (Rolling Stone/paywall)

Inside TikTok’s Controversial Dupe Culture (Byrdie)

The case against dupe culture (QJ)

https://trends.google.com/trends/explore?geo=US&q=duped

The Return of Stealth Wealth

To American ears, this approach might sound callous. But according to Morris-Glennon, the British class system has a staggering influence on the country’s work attire. What you wear offers insight into where you are in life and where you used to be. As Morris-Glennon puts it, “In England especially, the more money you have, the less you care about clothing. The old money sometimes, you wouldn’t be able to pull them out of a crowd.” She narrows her eyes and says slowly, “The last person you’d think was a billionaire is the billionaire.”

https://www.vogue.com/article/industry-hbo-style-fashion

Sinead O’Dwyer On Why Body-Diverse Casting Needs To Become The Norm At Fashion Week

London-based Irish designer Sinead O’Dwyer has made it her mission to promote body diversity – from casting to the clothing she puts into production. Still on a high after showing her spring/summer 2023 collection at London Fashion Week, on a cast of models from size 8 to 26, O’Dwyer says it’s “only going to get better” from here. Here, she shares the steps she’s taken to prioritise inclusivity – and to encourage others in the industry to do the same.

https://www-vogue-co-uk.cdn.ampproject.org/c/s/www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/sinead-odwyer-body-diversity/amp

The Gamification of Humanity

When did daily life come to feel so much like a competition? In “You’ve Been Played,” Adrian Hon traces how and why gamification — the application of video-game principles like experience points, streaks, leader boards, badges and special challenges — has come to suffuse nearly every aspect of human existence in the digital era. Examples range from exercise (Nike, Strava), housework (Chore Wars) and brushing your teeth (Pokémon Smile), to — more disturbingly — going to school (ClassDojo) or work (Amazon warehouses’ PicksInSpace).

Hon slips easily between the perspectives of expert, enthusiast and critic. An education in neuroscience informs his explanation of the behaviorist underpinnings of gamification. And in his capacity leading the games company behind the popular running app Zombies, Run!, much of his working life is spent tussling with these issues. Some of the book’s most insightful moments come when Hon discusses how his team considers ethics and user experience when deciding how much to use gamification tricks in their own work.

https://www-nytimes-com.cdn.ampproject.org/c/s/www.nytimes.com/2022/09/20/books/review/youve-been-played-adrian-hon.amp.html

The Dark Side Of Nostalgia Culture

We are living in a time of global uncertainty. The world has changed irrevocably since the beginning of the Covid-19 pandemic and current news cycles detail the effects of climate change, the cost-of-living crisis, energy shortages, the death of Queen Elizabeth II and the Russo-Ukrainian warFashion trends respond to our environment and consequently runways in recent years have been awash with bright waves of nostalgia, reflected in the recent resurgence of the Y2K aesthetic. In an age of social unrest, the allure of a more carefree time is understandable. Low-rise jeans, Von Dutch caps, bandanna crop tops and micro skirts have made a comeback. Gen-Z have heralded the return of ‘indie sleaze’, a chaotic, dishevelled era which developed in reaction to the slick celebrity culture of the early 2000s, when American Apparel disco pants, rosary beads, backcombed hair and smudged eyeliner were the norm.

https://www.elle.com/uk/life-and-culture/culture/a41209755/nostalgia-culture-dark-side/

IS DEPOP GREENWASHING FAST FASHION?

Depop has released a sustainability plan for 2021-2022, in which the company sets out its aims to be ‘kinder to people and kinder to the planet’. What struck me as odd was its environmental aim to ‘thrive to reduce environmental impact and do no harm’. As a company which relies on the transport of goods across the UK and beyond, is it conceivable that they can aim to ‘do no harm’ and have no adverse effects on the environment at all?

https://impactnottingham.com/2022/01/is-depop-greenwashing-fast-fashion-delving-into-the-companys-sustainability-plans/

Down with the rich! Class rage fuels new wave of ‘us v them’ films and plays

In the wake of Parasite, the bloody South Korean Oscar-winner, and of the Emmy successes last week for the television dramas Squid Game and White Lotus, which is set in a luxury resort, there is a clear global appetite for exposing and satirising the huge gaps in wealth and status. Both series focused on the desperation of the serving classes.

The ill-fated yacht in Triangle of Sadness is laden with people who represent the moneyed private jet-owners of the modern world. Among them are a grizzled Russian oligarch, who sails alongside both his wife and his mistress, and an elderly British arms manufacturer and his wife. The reluctant captain of the ship is Woody Harrelson, ultimately the accidental agent of destruction in Ruben Östlund’s film. The Swedish director, who is best known for his alpine drama Force Majeure and artworld satire The Square, ultimately hands power over to one of the yacht’s cleaners, Abigail, played by Dolly De Leon, in a storyline that echoes a long history of cautionary tales in which the downtrodden rise up to wreak revenge on their masters.

https://amp-theguardian-com.cdn.ampproject.org/c/s/amp.theguardian.com/film/2022/sep/17/down-with-the-rich-class-rage-fuels-new-wave-of-us-v-them-films-and-plays

Richard Powers: “Climate change is a psychological problem”

There is something mystical about Powers – his surname adding to the sense of an other-worldly persona. Yethe is wary of the individualistic notion of “self-reliance”, as emphasised in the American literary tradition of Henry David Thoreau and Ralph Waldo Emerson. “I want transcendentalism without that focus,” he said, warning that, unless we can reconnect with the wider ecosystems we depend on, so much that is meaningful in life risks being lost. “Today’s stage of capitalism is increasingly intoxicated with the idea of increasing our power through technological control of time and space. When I was living in Silicon Valley, I’d go to dinner parties and people would say, ‘Just hold on a little bit longer, because we’re going to cure death.’”

https://www.newstatesman.com/encounter/2022/08/richard-powers-interview-climate-change

The super-rich ‘preppers’ planning to save themselves from the apocalypse

Taking their cue from Tesla founder Elon Musk colonising MarsPalantir’s Peter Thiel reversing the ageing process, or artificial intelligence developers Sam Altman and Ray Kurzweil uploading their minds into supercomputers, they were preparing for a digital future that had less to do with making the world a better place than it did with transcending the human condition altogether. Their extreme wealth and privilege served only to make them obsessed with insulating themselves from the very real and present danger of climate change, rising sea levels, mass migrations, global pandemics, nativist panic and resource depletion. For them, the future of technology is about only one thing: escape from the rest of us.

https://www.theguardian.com/news/2022/sep/04/super-rich-prepper-bunkers-apocalypse-survival-richest-rushkoff